Master In The House .
Where ‘proper food’ is the only option on the menu.
A friend had kindly organised our ‘special day’ in the capital. His prior email, with ’tongue in cheek’, went something like this;
“The wooden spoon playoff match will be held at Murrayfield this Saturday evening. Before then we have a liquid breakfast on the 'Champagne Express', followed by lunch at Mark Greenaway, 69 North Castle Street [where it meets Queen Street]. I haven't been there but it has good reviews, and by 1.45pm I don't expect many of you will notice anyway.”
Let’s just say, we noticed!
Amidst a heavy shower, we twelve arrived in a gathered huddle at Restaurant Mark Greenaway where we received a hearty welcome and were promptly lightened of damp outers.
High Georgian ceilings and elegant brass chandeliers lent grandeur to simple surroundings. Walls washed with calming blue/grey ‘Farrow & Ball’, crisp linen napkins, fine glassware and whiter than white crockery sat comfortably with the modest wooden furnishings.
Seated and relaxed, we settled on the Market Menu, three courses for £20.00.
(We had no intention of missing dessert knowing that Mark has a reputation for ambrosial puddings.)
PAN FRIED DUCK EGG
Duck Croquette, Brioche, Duck Ham, Baby Celery Leaves.
As this dish was brought to the table I inhaled an almost overwhelming scent of truffle which proved to be merely a note on the palate of a fun starter. Packed with flavour it was full of little surprises such as the mini fried brioche and minced meat rissole. Apologies, no photo, my appetite got the better of me.
OVEN ROASTED SALMON FILLET
Crushed Potatoes, Tempura Soft Shell Crab, Sauce Nero.
A gentle dish, satisfying and flavoursome. The crab hiding in the lightest of tempura and soupcon of sauce Nero made a simple plate something special.
PEANUT CARAMEL CHEESECAKE
Salted Caramel, Warm Toffee Sauce and Roasted Peanuts.
I can still taste it. There isn’t much to add to this description other than to mention the impossibly thin shards of sweet pastry, creatively developed from a shortbread recipe which had the perfect playful texture against a warmth of creaminess.
Empty Plates At Contented Tables
I don’t believe people should feel loaded down after a meal and this food whilst an indulgent and affordable treat had none of that.
There was generous ambiance inspired in equal measure by the food on the plate, the convivial surroundings and courteous front of house.
This was an opportunity to eat what I would call, quite simply, ‘proper food’.
This award winning, ‘gritty scot’ is ‘walking the walk’ with steely determination. He is in his kitchen, cooking and guiding and he is on ‘the shop floor, ‘chewing the fat’ with his diners.
Most importantly, he understands the importance of flavour and using excellent raw ingredients. Passion and seasonality are oozing from his menu.
The innovative menus include an eight course tasting menu, a la carte menu and a lunch and pre-theatre market menu.
Tuesday to Saturday 12-2.30pm
Tuesday to Saturday 5.30-10pm
Closed Sunday & Monday
To make a reservation please call 0131 226 1155